The M Series is built to minimize maintenance time. An electro-hydraulic joystick with push-button controls for blade shake and fine grading also help simplify operation. Upgraded environmental controls and a factory-installed radio are also available. True positive pressure helps keep out the elements and advanced sealing results in one of the quietest cabs in the industry with a decibel rating of 76 dBa. The redesigned cab offers floor-to-ceiling glass doors and a cab-forward design to provide maximum visibility with direct line-of-sight to the blade edge and cab-to-ground vision of only 15.5-feet. It also allows a lower hood profile for greater visibility than CEGR setups. Rather than compromise power, this after-treatment system lets the engine do what it does best – run at peak performance. The M Series are the industry’s first dozers to be powered by an SCR (Selective Catalytic Reduction) Tier 4 engine. A new v-shaped cooling system with auto-reversing fan also helps maximize uptime by automatically clearing the cooling package of debris. I get the same thing with joystick unplugged.The 2050M puts powerful precision at your disposal thanks to best-in-class horsepower of 214 hp, massive drawbar pull of nearly 81,000 lbs, fingertip controls and customizable steering, shuttle and blade sensitivity settings that can be adjusted between Smooth, Moderate and Aggressive to match ground conditions and operator comfort. Before the problem, I could press the top of second rocker button from right to get engine RPM but now I get "no can". Key on safety levers down.Īlso, when ignition is turned on display shows machine hours. Dash display and left joystick unplugged. Travel controller and joystick unplugged. Readings were at a and c and a and d at the diagnostic plug.Ĥ. The voltage readings we took yesterday were taken with one controller unplugged and the other two plugged in, key on and levers down. She is an automotive instructor assistant at a local tech. I understand too, without Case software, troubleshooting is like taking the long way around. In addition to troubleshooting the problem, it helps me learn how the dozer operates. Turn the key on, safety levers down, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. With only the travel controller plugged in (dash display and left joystick unplugged). With only the dash display plugged in (travel controller and left joystick unplugged). (dash and travel controller unplugged) Turn the key on, safety levers down, and at the 9 pin deutsch connector check power from pin A and C. With the travel controller unplugged, the joystick and dash display were both still plugged in and powered up (safety levers down) with the dash display unplugged, the joystick and travel controller were both still plugged in and powered up (safety levers down)ģ. With the joystick unplugged, the dash and travel controller were both still plugged in and powered up, (safety levers down)Ģ. The voltage readings seem a little odd to me, I just want to make sure you checked it right.ġ. With the joystick unplugged did the dash display still say "NO CAN" ? When the ignition is turn on, do the gauges on the dash display function? Does the speed needle come up to 60% speed? As long as you don't mind these tests, I don't mind helping. I know these checks are getting long, but I don't like to condemn an expensive part without all the proper checks. All of your other checks appear to be good. The travel controller connector is easy to take apart, and you can easily back probe power to the wires as needed, with the controller plugged in. ![]() ![]() (I suggest a 1amp fuse because if I remember right, the controller takes a 1amp fuse in the fuse box) If you don't have a fuse holder, just use spade connectors to a 1amp atc fuse. I like to use a fuse holder, in case something goes wrong you pop a fuse instead of melting wires. If you do not have power at all the wires with the levers down, then jump power to them and try it. ![]() Sorry, I forgot to tell you be in neutral and to put the safety levers down when checking the travel controller power wires. Your travel controller is not getting power at all the pins. You have proper CAN ohms at all the connectors (connector side is what we are concerned about) This tells us that the CAN harness should be good.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |